OPENING THE gateway TO VAST TOURISM POTENTIAL

AN IDYLLIC tourist destination, but with hardly any tourists: that has been Mozambique's paradoxical situation for some years. But the government is determined that the country's immense natural charms will not go unappreciated much longer. That means investment will be needed in infrastructure, especially in transportation, and in tourist facilities and services. There will also have to be more active promotion abroad, although that part promises to be easy.

Mozambique has a coast boasting more than 1,500 miles of the most beautiful beaches in Africa, along with breath-taking coral reefs and fabulous fishing, while its interior offers spectacular scenery and abundant wildlife. Well-preserved tribal cultures, colonial sites of historical interest, modern urban nightlife and luxury hotels are all to be found in Mozambique. That all this has been largely overlooked in recent times is due to troubles that are long gone. When Bob Dylan sang about "couples dancing cheek to cheek in sunny Mozambique" a quarter of a century ago, the country had just won its independence and was looking to the future with great optimism. But only a few years after Dylan's ode to this "magical land" of "aqua-blue sky" and "of lovely people living free", a civil war broke out which was to last even longer than the armed struggle against Portuguese colonialism.

Having at long last achieved a stable democratic political system, and fueled by Africa's fastest economic growth of the past decade, Mozambique is ready to begin capitalizing on the many attractions of the 'land of contrasts and smiles.' The creation of a tourism ministry less than a year ago is just one indication of this. "Tourism is the industry of the future," declares Fernando Sumbana Jr., the new Minister of Tourism. At present, he points out, "we are one of the countries with the lowest number of tourist visits," but this will change very soon.

In addition to serving as a gateway to attractions in neigh-boring countries, such as Swaziland and South Africa, Mozambique has "a combination of virgin natural resources and a popular culture that can make tourists feel at home," he says. One important initiative aimed at boosting tourism is the proposed single visa for the 14 countries that form the Southern African Development Community (SADC). This would enhance Mozambique's role as a gateway to its six neighbors and also encourage visitors to the region to include Mozambique in their itineraries.

The Ministry's National Tourism Foundation (Futur) is working to both stimulate investment in the sector and remind the world of what Mozambique has to offer. According to government policy guidelines, "tourism is a commercial activity which has to be driven by the private sector," but tax incentives, direct assistance and training pro-grams are still being provided by the government, as Futur's managing director, Zacarias Sumbana, explains. Futur is trying to draw in visitors from relatively distant markets, such as the United States. "We are trying to combine packages with neighboring countries to attract U.S. visitors," says Dr. Sumbana.

Those in charge of three of the best hotels in Maputo-the Avenida, the Cardoso and the Polana-are generally pleased with the government's plans to revive the tourism industry and work together with private operators. The new general manager of the Hotel Avenida, Joao Marques, recalls that soon after he took up his post, he and his colleagues in the hotel trade were invited to a meeting with the Minister of Tourism. "Their intentions are fantastic," he says. "They asked for our help and they want to count on our expertise to go ahead with their new projects," adds Mr. Marques.

The Cardoso's general manager, John A. Elliot, believes that 2000 has been a good year for his business, both because of the creation of the new ministry and due to the abolition of the 3% tourist tax previously added to hotel service charges. Mr. Elliot sees the out- look now as quite optimistic and points out that Mozambique "is in a good position because it is starting at the bottom and can learn from its neighbors."

The Hotel Polana's general manager, David R. Ankers, is also pleased at the new attention the government is giving to tourism, which he is sure "will be a major foreign exchange earner." The government is "going about it the right way, in terms of trying to come closer to the private sector," he says. Pointing to two major success stories: the Mozal aluminum smelter and the Polana hotel, Mr. Ankers claims that "Mozambique has potential for any investor."