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| Essaouira has inspired a long list
of musicians, including Jimi Hendrix. |
The towering
skeletons of future fishing boats loom high
over Essaouiras harbor.
Their bare
timber boughs provide a stark contrast against
bright red fishing lines and piles of rainbow
crates that overflow with the catch of the
day.
At their feet,
smaller wooden dinghies cram perfectly together,
floating in unison, a bobbing mass of azure
and royal blue, their flaking paint the
subject of many a photo album.
As the afternoon sun drops idly toward the
horizon, the whitewashed walls of the medina
reflect its golden rays. The sounds of a
thousand impatient seagulls fill the sky
as the birds appeal to the fishermen for
scraps.
Since French
architect Theodore Cornut designed Essaouiras
original fortress and layout during the
18th century, little of the citys
architecture has changed.
After the mayhem of big-city Casablanca
and Marrakesh, one could be forgiven for
thinking that, since Essaouira was built,
nothing much has changed at all.
But thats just it.
At that time,
Moroccan ruler Mohammed III wished to reorient
his kingdom towards the Atlantic for increased
trade with Europe. Essaouira was chosen
as the prime destination to become a thriving
port and gateway to the West.
However, despite
his investment, the city did not flourish.
Essaouira was simply too far away from the
traditional caravan routes, and it was left
to develop at its own peaceful pace.
Moroccans and
foreigners alike are drawn to Essaouiras
tranquil environment, where beautiful golden
beaches meet the intricate labyrinth of
streets and stalls.
True to its
history, Essaouira is still considered to
be off the beaten track, which
explains the lack of crowds and frenetic
tourist atmosphere found in most tourist
resorts.
Prices for
most goods are lower in Essaouira, and its
uncommon that the relaxed locals will hassle
you to buy. Almost all of Moroccos
famous products and souvenirs, such as intensely
colored carpets, wrought-iron lamps or pungent
spices, are found within the walls of the
old city.
Perhaps the
people are so friendly because of Essaouiras
near-perfect climate. Constant ocean breezes
govern the citys temperature year
round, keeping it pleasant during the day
and cool at night.
That same breeze
has lifted the citys international
profile in more ways than one. Essouira
is also famous for its world-class windsurfing.
By night there
are few bars or nightclubs to enjoy, but
visitors generally fill their evenings with
strolls, or horse or camel rides along the
beach.
If thats not for you, then why not
while away the afternoon in one of Essaourias
quaint beachside cafes?
With the Atlantic
stretching out toward infinity, the call
to prayer wafting through the air, and a
piping hot the de menthe in your hand, youll
be hard pressed to find anything closer
to bliss.
Rock the casbah
at the Essaouira Music Festival
If you ever
needed an excuse to visit Morocco, look
no further than the Essaouira Gnawa and
World Music Festival (www.festival-gnaoua.net).
This year, from June 26 to 29, more than
400,000 people will converge on Essaouira
to witness the mesmerizing performances
of the Gnawa, the descendents of slaves
from Black Africa who formed brotherhoods
throughout Morocco.
The Gnawa groups consist of master musicians,
metal castanet players, drummers, clairvoyants,
mediums and their followers. Their performances
of ancient music and rituals during the
festival, where the Gnawa call upon the
saints and supernatural entities to take
possession of their followers, are both
invigorating and hypnotic. But these days
the Gnawa arent the only cultural
spectacle on offer.
After ten years
the festival has grown to accommodate a
wide showcase of musical genres that includes
jazz fusion, rock, reggae, African, Brazilian,
Afro-Cuban and hip-hop acts, and even electro-DJs,
from all corners of the globe.
The line-up of 25 Gnawa bands, 250 Moroccan
artists, and 150 musicians, ensures that
the nine stages scattered throughout the
maze-like medina are never empty. Other
artistic and cultural events are also timed
to coincide with the festival. Performances
begin in the afternoon, giving time to further
explore beautiful Essaouira.
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